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History

The history of climbing.

Climbing grew into a family of sports with its own gear, ethics, federations and Olympic medals. These pages tell that story from the sources, and where the sources disagree about who did something first, or when, they say so.

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This section is a history of how climbing became a sport, how its equipment and ethics changed, and how it came to have federations, gyms and Olympic medals. It is history only. Nothing in it teaches climbing, and the deaths and accidents it mentions are told as published history, not as lessons. For how the sport is organised today, start with Learn.

How these pages are written

  • Every date has a source. Each fact is given with the club, federation, land manager, publication, museum or encyclopedia it comes from.
  • Disputed firsts get every version. Who gets the credit for Mont Blanc, where rock climbing was born, who invented the climbing nut, the cam and the harness, which route was the first 9a, where the first World Cup was held, and which climbing gym came first are all claimed more than one way. Each version is given with who says it.
  • Source errors are shown, not hidden. Where one source gives a date or result that the others contradict, such as ExplorersWeb's 1809 date for Henriette d'Angeville on Mont Blanc or LaCrux's account of the Paris 2024 bouldering medals, the page gives it as that source's claim against the others.
  • Wikipedia is named when it stands alone. Where Wikipedia is the only source for a fact, the text says so.
  • Unconfirmed claims are marked or left out. Where a page could only be seen as a search summary, or a claim rests on a single source we could not check, the page says so or leaves it out.

The federation that runs competition climbing was called the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) until 10 December 2025, when it renamed itself World Climbing. These pages use the old name for events before the change.

What is in this section

The story starts in the Alps with early mountaineering: the first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, the first women on its summit, the founding of the Alpine Club in 1857 and the Matterhorn in 1865. The birth of rock climbing sets out the rival claims of Napes Needle in England and the sandstone towers of Saxon Switzerland, and Paul Preuss's 1911 argument about pitons. Fontainebleau and bouldering follows bouldering from Alpine training in a French forest to John Gill, chalk, the V scale and the first crash pads.

Yosemite and the big walls covers the Lost Arrow, Half Dome, the Nose, the Salathe Wall, the 1971 bolt dispute and Camp 4. Clean climbing and cams tells how climbers moved from pitons to nuts, and the contested story of the first spring-loaded cams. Sport climbing and bolts runs from the first redpoint in 1975 through France, the first 9a and Smith Rock to the arguments over bolts.

The first climbing walls traces indoor climbing from the 1930s to the first commercial gyms in 1987, and competition climbing goes from Soviet speed events and Sportroccia in 1985 to the Olympic Games. Women in climbing gathers the women's clubs, El Capitan ascents and grade firsts. Access history covers the Kinder Scout trespass, the Access Fund and Devils Tower, and equipment history gives the dates for carabiners, ropes, harnesses, helmets, belay devices, shoes and the CE mark. The timeline puts the main dated events in one table.

Related reading

The federations and clubs as they are today are described on who governs climbing, and the grade scales that appear throughout these pages on grading systems. Current competitions and ascents are in the Events section, and terms used across the site are explained in the glossary.

01

Early mountaineering

Mont Blanc in 1786, the first women on its summit, the Alpine Club of 1857 and the golden age that ended on the Matterhorn in 1865.

02

Birth of rock climbing

Napes Needle in 1886, the Saxon sandstone towers from 1864, and Paul Preuss's 1911 argument about pitons, with the rival claims to be first.

03

Fontainebleau and bouldering

From Alpine training on the Fontainebleau boulders in 1874 to John Gill, chalk, the V scale, the first crash pads and the grade firsts.

04

Yosemite and the big walls

The Lost Arrow, Half Dome in 1957, the Nose in 1958, the Salathe Wall, the 1971 bolt dispute, the 2015 Dawn Wall and Camp 4's listing.

05

Clean climbing and cams

Slung pebbles, machine nuts, the 1972 Chouinard catalogue and the contested story of how Ray Jardine's Friends came to market.

06

Sport climbing and bolts

The 1975 redpoint, Edlinger and Buoux, Gullich and the first 9a, Smith Rock, and the bolt policies and disputes that followed.

07

The first climbing walls

From a 1930s wall in Belgium and Seattle's Schurman Rock to the Leeds wall, moulded holds and the first commercial gyms of 1987.

08

Competition climbing

Soviet speed events, Sportroccia in 1985, the first World Cup and World Championships, the IFSC, now World Climbing, and the road to LA 2028.

09

Women in climbing

Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn, the women's clubs, El Capitan in 1973, Lynn Hill's free Nose, competition winners and the grade firsts.

10

Access history

The Kinder Scout trespass of 1932, Britain's access laws, the Access Fund of 1991, Devils Tower, Hueco Tanks and the fixed-anchor disputes.

11

Equipment history

Carabiners from fire brigades, the first dynamic ropes, UIAA testing from 1960, the sit harness, belay plates, sticky rubber and the CE mark.

12

Timeline

Every main dated event from the History section in one table, from 1786 to 2026, with disputed dates given each way and each source named.

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